Monday, 29 November 2010

Week 4 - Bangkok to Sukothai, 235kms cycled.

Highlights: Great scenery, friendly people.

Low blows: The 6 month visa Id been promised turned out to be a 30day visa.   
                  .     Discovering a road you’d cycled a long way to get to doesn’t exist!

Music of the week: Sodade – Cesaria Evora


Bangkok

Went to pick up visas only to discover theyd only given me a double entry 30day and not 6 months as Id requested. After lengthy discussion it turns out you cannot get a 6 month without an invitation letter. Woman eventually gave me back 700 baht and apologized.
Back to hospital for final dose of Cholera vaccine then onto bike shop to get a new cycle computer, some new bar grips and a bottle cage. Spend, spend, spend. Loads of monitor lizards sloping around the park, really tame. Some huge crows too! Changed money into US dollars, Dong and Yuan then popped into art museum. Met with Glen and Steve for farewell beers at night.

Caution lizard crossing.


Bangkok to Nakhon Sawan by train.

 
Rode to train station in about 10 mins, ate lunch and lazed about till time to put bike on train. Got there and workers taking all cargo off it – problem with the engine. A new one was found and we set off 40 mins late. My carriage right at opposite end of train so humped all stuff down there to reclining fan chair – loads of leg room too!!
Great to be leaving Bangkok – Im really fed up of the place just cos its really hard to find decent and reasonably priced food in backpacker area and all Thais there are really jaded with it all. Saw some pigeons at SamSen station all perched on the ends of vertical steel wire in the concrete column, rather than the tree opposite. Lovely scenery along the way – loads of birds in the wetland/rice paddy areas around Ayuthaya, storks, egrets, drongos, doves. Further on rice ready to harvest/ been harvested/ stubble burnt, and paddies prepared/replanted. Big limestone mtn in distance with a cement factory at the base. Arrived Nakhon Sawan an hour late at 19:30. Ask bloke in ticket office where a hotel was. He started to tell me but then just beckoned to follow him so I went into carpark and he pointed 100m into corner. Had to call number on sign as no one there (a bloke staying here helped me and he was instructed to show me a room). Nice little room 200 baht (so he said) with tv, fan bathroom. 


Hualamphong train station


Waiting for the new bits of the train to arrive

Trees not good enough for Bangkok pigeons

Nakhon Sawan to town on way to Umphang 130kms

 
Slept well. Easily found breakfast in a large food market set up outside train station in a long strip. Had thai food over rice and then went and sat at stall across from there to have coffee. People very polite here and can feel a more harmonius existence in this place. Pleasant to sit and watch and be part of it. Cant beat real Thai style. An old man arrived singing and in good spirits, who sat with me. 2 of the old mans friend arrived so talked with them a while until time for off. Went to pay for coffee, but one of the men had already signalled he was gonna pay for it. Said thankyou and left. Still no sign of gh owner so left key and money on table in room. Set off, wide busy road, passing army base training helicopter pilots, some hovering and maneuvering in the field, others out over the town. Probably quite dangerous around here? Hit the main highway, and glad to have hi-viz bands on, which I leave on all the time now, as fast busy road (but didn’t seem too bad after my Bangkok conditioning). 25kms in stopped for snacks at 7/11, then turned onto quieter road. Lots of bird life, drongos, storks, egrets, the odd heron too, and some kestrel-like birds of prey hovering looking for victims.
Heard a twang and a rear spoke had gone. Few minutes later another twang and another spoke. Wheel now got a wobble in it and Im imagining the whole thing collapsing in a heap beneath me, so took it steady for rest of ride. Beautiful countryside, mainly rice paddies. Stopped at Ban Lak for lunch and looked for a bike shop but no one had spokes for my ‘super’ bike. Lathered up with sun screen, hat, long sleeved shirt, and carried on. Grain warehouses and some vast areas of concrete for grain drying, set out in pretty swirls.


Harvested rice drying in the sun


Friendly folks along the way

Had a rest stop and chatted with a bloke and other people in village until ready to carry on. At 78kms got to a crossroads with a few shops motel, and gas station. Bloke in gas station said there was accomodaton 25kms further up the road so carried on as not tired enough yet. Nearer the hills now, road undulating gently, and crops becoming mixed – some tapioca too. This area has so many wats, literally one every 10kms. Must be peaceful to be a monk out here. The village where Id been assured there was accommodation had none, so would have to continue to next town. Road has been smooth as a babys bum all day and after lunch, virtually deserted- very pleasant after Bangkok! And scenery beautiful – sun going down over silhouette of low hills and flooded paddies in foreground- which kept me going. Eventually arrived in a town. Asked some people for gh, but turns out all resorts are out of town, arse. On my last legs and did the 8kms (locals said 4) to a resort. My dream of nice chalets and a food place were misplaced as it was basically some rich persons grounds with a few bungalows in it. A/C starting at 600 and mattress awful. Only other alternative was going back 16kms onto other side of town. Asked bloke if I could have it for 400 with no air. He went and asked and they put me in a room down the bottom, toilet outside for 300. Room clean and nice sheets. Had refreshing shower and then Mr O the lad that worked there sorted me out with some dinner – a plate of pig shins, with boiled eggs, vegetables and a huge portion of rice. Cant say Ive eaten pig shins before, but they were ok after such a long ride. Knackered.

To Kampheng Phet 65kms and onto Sukothai by songtheaw

Slept like a log, although had to put net up as mozzie munching on my knuckle. Turns out the road that used to go from here to Umphang no longer exists – despite it being a think yellow line on my map! Thanked Mr O for helping me out, then breakfast in towns market. I like out of the way places cos you get farmers size portions!! Called probike in Bangkok and they said there was a bike shop in Sukothai so that’s where Im headed. Farming more mixed here, rice, sugar beat being harvested and some corn and tapioca fields too. This area has the longest straightest roads! Hayfever making me sneeze a lot. Hit main highway and thought Id be clever by taking a shortcut into the town away from busy road. Ended up doing a circle and probably up highway about 2kms from where Id been  to bus station (should have learned from Chumphon that bus stations aren’t in the town!)  Had dinner then got a songtheaw to Sukothai, a lovely tree lined road and chatting with woman driver in front. Sky hazy from burning off stubble. Found farang gh 250 baht for cute little bungalow with bathroom. My sandals are stinking! Gave them a wash.

Around Sukothai 40kms

Dropped my bike in to the shop, then sat by the river and ate the pinapple Id bought from market. Lots of ants appeared as they sniffed out this sweet tasty treat. Let my sandals dry properly in the sun. Picked up bike, wheels straight as a die. Went to have a look round World heritage park in afternoon. 12kms away. Sat and watched people feeding catfish in a big lake, there was a large turtle in there too jockeying for position but he kept getting sunk by the mob. Had a cycle round ruins, but looked more like a building site to me as all that remains are the laterite foundation blocks, no stucco or murals or anything. Bagan wipes the floor with this place! Not impressed. Somehow Id managed to bypass the toll huts, who now want 100 baht per section. Pleasant to ride around the shady tree lined roads and large lake things. Had a big plate of food in nightmarket for only 25baht -aroy aroy.

Sukothai world heritage site

Sukothai world heritage site
Catfish freeding frenzy! Anyone for a fish spa and foot massage?

Probably the best looking building in the whole heritage site - the tourist office.

Sunday, 21 November 2010

Week 3 - PrachuapKiriKhan to Bangkok. Only cycled a bit around Bangkok.


Highlights: BBQ king size prawns and beers with buddies.

Low blows: Bangkok traffic.

Music of the week: Divers – Boozou Bajou

Caught bus up to Bangkok 120 baht for me and 100 for bike. Arrived 1:30pm. Quite unnerving to be amongst such heavy traffic and past closely by cement mixers and other nutters at high speed. Glad to arrive at gh 45 mins later. The woman who owns place I stayed at keeps lots of dogs and birds in cages, so it smells a bit like a petshop, but is quite a quirky place and right enough for 200baht. Put passport in for 6month China and 1month Vietnam visas (3200 and 2200baht). Already 3pm by time I got organized so just bought a 30litre drybag so make things a bit more organized on back of bike instead of lots of plastic bags. Had a few beers later on the infamous Gecko bar which certainly helped me to sleep while the Chinese festival around the corner went on till 2am with blasting music and wailing karaoke.

Bangkok.
Some local had their phone on full blast so kept getting woken up by a Thais mobile phone song on full volume in night and early in morning. Thai mobile phones have enough volume to rival a motorhead gig. Had a western breakfast for a change, then cycled to the bikeshop. Lots of big monitor lizards in Lumphini Park swimming about. Bought new rear light, handlebar bag, pump, innertubes, gloves, waterbottle, tube levers, tube repairkit, and got new chain and rear set fitted aswell. 100quid altogether. Went and had my vaccinations done in nearby red cross hospital while waiting for them to put on new chain and rear set on bike. Some boats in the yard recently arrived back from flooded areas. A load of construction workers of to Middle East came in to get vaccinated too. 
Wandered around doing a bit of sight-seeing and shopping, weird how walking around Bangkok makes you just as tired as cycling long distance. Met with some friends in evening and had a few beers and game of pool.

Around Bangkok's markets

Around Bangkok's markets

Around Bangkok's markets

Around Bangkok's markets

Around Bangkok's markets

Around Bangkok's markets

Around the ChaoPhraya river.

Around the ChaoPhraya river.

Around the ChaoPhraya river.

Around the ChaoPhraya river.

Around the ChaoPhraya river.




Around the ChaoPhraya river.

Around Bangkok.

Around the ChaoPhraya river.



Around Bangkok.


Around Bangkok.

Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.

Around Bangkok.

Strange junction.
Strange junction.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.
Around Bangkok.



Later in the week packed my bags and cycled up to Steves house in BangYai. He’d given me decent directions so just had to brave traffic, which wasn’t too bad at mid morning. Worried about getting rear ended by some twat on mobile phone etc. Hot sunny morning. Went to supermarket on motorbike and bought some supplies, including a case of beer, which became a bit of a balancing act having it perched on seat and wedged between my knees on way back.

Mental Health cereal!


Curry night at Glen and Preeya’s new house. Had delicious king Prawns and squid on BBQ and then a few curries all washed down with the booze Id gotten earlier. Aroy Aroy!!

Next morning turns out Federbrau is a miracle beer as felt absolutely fine!! Glen made comment too so must be the Bavarian purity laws that make it so clean. Went and bought a hi-viz jacket to modify for the bike. Went in search of a seamstress and got them to knock up a couple of hi-viz wrap around things, that will fit around top of pannier bags and make me more visible. I realised when looking at the fully loaded bike from behind that it was just a black mass. Now its lit up like a Christmas tree – Hope it helps!
Saturday was Steves birthday so had a few beers in afternoon and then went off to a restaurant followed by Karaoke.
Can't let all that ice cream go to waste. 

Tequila.


Girls 'n' boys.


 A good laugh and decided to drink the magic potion Federbrau again and avoided drinking tequila despite peer pressure. Matt did a quality comedy routine at the end!! Bed 1:30.
Sunday Morning – Federbrau is now my favourite beer as you can drink as much as you want and feel ok the next day, the exact opposite of drinking beer Chang (elephant beer), which makes you feel like an elephant has walked over your head.




Monday, 15 November 2010

Week 2 - Ranong to PrachuapKiriKhan. 150kms cycled.

Highlights: PrachuapKiriKhan beach, mini fish in batter, home made ice-cream

Low blows: Chumpon bus station in middle of nowhere.

Music of the week: Quantic – Use what you got.



Pimp my ride Thai style!

Ranong to Kraburi.

Rained for most of way. Forested hills shrouded in mist, rubber plantations, not too much traffic although occasional trucks loaded with fish from Ranong whizzing by with flatulent big bore exhausts and Al Pacino mud flaps – long 70’s hair, toothpick/cigarette and ray ban aviators – so macho!! Had long lunch break at small town along the way, then watched weird mudskippers waggling their heads and flapping about with their little arms. Rolled into Kraburi 3pm. Tiny town and not a lot here. Only place to stay was resort 2kms out of town that I’d already gone past so back up the road. Got a cosy seashell adorned A frame round the back away from the road for 300b (cold water). Ang the owner likes to talk so after showering we had a good natter. Went into town and ended up at ‘the pier’ a small area opposite Myanmar 100m across the river. Small boats to and fro-ing with people, school kids and supplies from there to here. Had some food in the pier front restaurant, a run down place and expensive, but I suppose it has ‘the spot’ in the town. Sat there for a bit. Nesting in the roof loads of swifts?, I later found out are the birds whose nests are used for birds nest soup. Quite cool temp here and comfortable. Wails and bass coming from the Karaoke across the road, but not too loud, started raining.

Kraburi.to Chumphon (then bus to PrachuapKiriKhan)

Still raining in the morning. Went to get breakfast in market and arrived at 8am (king time) and everyone, including me, stopped for national anthem- nice to see these out of the way places still very patriotic. Dismounted from bike, carmoo sai kai, for breakfast, then on the road. Constant rain, road gentle up and down, 8 kms out of town Myanmar border just 20m over the river a big sign announcing the Isthmus of Arg? or summat like that anyway. Further on, a really pretty waterfall right next to roadside so stopped and gawked for a while. A few police checkpoints but as usual bike goes through with a wave and a smile. Truck drivers showing little consideration and me covered in filthy spray. Road also has a lot of sand/dirt on it so bike looks sand blasted and my legs a light covering of cement like material - Lovely! Had snack stop then motored on as wanted to catch the 12:46 train to Prachuap. Saw 2 cyclists coming the other way, one at front with head down, but one at the back happy and smiley. Rain looking like it wants to stop but never actually doing so. Got to Chumphon train station – train doesn’t take cargo and is full anyway! Great. Hosed myself down in the bathroom, then discovered the bus station was 12kms back the way Id come. Arse. Pissed off that town planners could be such idiots. Went and had some food first and felt less sorry for myself, then tried to get on bus heading to BKK, but they wanted full fare so I set off to the remote bus station, getting a bag of pineapple along the way and slagging off whoever decided to put the bus station all the way in middle of nowhere. Chumphon is the crappest town in Thailand! Got to main highway and its still another 3kms down the road, so really in middle of nowhere – decided that it must be co-owned by Ryanair who have been known to adopt the name of a popular destination for an airport miles from the actual place. Got to bus station and luckily a bus was leaving immediately, so bunged the stuff on and got in. Nice bus too! 200baht for me and bike 190kms up the road. Got out at Prachuap – no rain for last 150kms too and all looks dry, and headed to Suksant hotel where Id already booked ahead. 390baht fan, cold water. Washed off bike, had a shower, then to night market for mixed veg and seafood followed by homemade ice-cream – aroy aroy!! Feeling very contented then had a walk along seafront. A few new gh’s and restos have sprung up along there. Discovered hotel has slow wireless internet so chatted with a few people and got nibbled at by annoying mozzies –how do they find their way up to the 4th floor??

PrachuapKiriKhan

Stayed here for the rest of the week. Weather sunny and overcast on a few days. Munched on fresh pineapple from the market, dined on super fresh seafood in the nightmarkets, and stuffed myself with homemade icecream. Moved to a lovely new gh on seafront called Nings Place shared bathroom (not busy though as only 2 rooms here) and have balcony 50m from sea and whole place is lovely and very colourfully decorated with Buddhist style art. 250baht a night too! One day pottering around I followed the road into nearby village and found a small stall selling small pieces of fish in batter – 2baht each and delicious (had 10).
Sunday was a lovely sunny day, had a spin on bike. Went to see the Langur monkeys which are at the foot of a big hill/mtn. One decided to hop onto my shoulder and sat there for a while, worried it might bite me but these monkeys seem very calm. After that I went up to top of the mtn over looking the bay, Easy to start as had steps but these only went half way up and ropes were needed later on up steep sections of sharp limestone rock. Great view from the top and much needed breeze. Clambered back down and went for food, then a swim and deckchair action. Went to mini battered fish woman again – yum.


View from my balcony.


Langur monkeys waiting for visitors to feed them. Corn on the cob is a favourite.

                 

My new friend.

                                                    




The way up the hill.
                                          

Ants building a leaf house on the way up the hill.


View from the top

View from the bottom: Ao Manau beach with hill in background.