Week 22 Lancang to Luangnamtha 146km cycled

Highlights: Lao herbal steam sauna

Low blows: 320km round trip to an ATM that takes foreign cards

Music of the week: Time and Space – The Cinematic Orchestra

Lancang to Menglian and back   by bus

Got up late, discovered hot shower only works when there is sun (solar powered) so had a cold ‘refreshing’ start. Also dropped my soap which slithered off towards the squat bog, as I muttered ‘noooooo’ and went after it, I slipped over on the suds and ended up almost sat in the bloody bog. Luckily the soap perched itself on the edge and didn’t go down into the hole. Prime comedy.

Bought dumplings up road and ate them back in gh before getting a bus to Menglian. Took an hour to get there on narrow windy roads busy with trucks and busses, lots of blokes smoking on bus too, the driver had 5 fags in the 1 hour journey. Then a  20 minute walk through new town to get to the old town which promised to be pretty adobe bricked houses. Well, owners probably got fed up living in mud brick and all the houses had been upgraded with real bricks, although the roofs looked to be original. 2 old temples and an original wooden Dai chiefs house left remaining. Dai house entrance being done up so I went in round the side entrance and had a look around. Back to bus stop and to Lancang for 4:30. Passed a few corners with about 40 bee hives and people collecting honey from them. Several road workers chopping at roadside vegetation with sythes but many just had sticks or pieces of wire.

Been over cast all day so had a warmer than cold shower when I got back and a shave.

Old Dai temple



Ornate window inside a 13th Century Dai clan house



Mural on school wall in the 'old' town



Back in Lancang, locals take a nap



Lancang to Menghai   111 km

Dumplings for bf then set off. Over cast sky that started spitting as I headed up new road into hills. Light traffic. 3 lads on motorbikes passed me and had slowed, sneeking a look around the long bend before turning back - Poilce check point stopping traffic and a lad with handcuffs behind his back looking sorry for himself. Near a small quarry blokes breaking up rocks into aggregate with hammers and chisels. Farmers hearding buffalo down the road, some with calves.

Spitting turned to drizzle turned to rain, and the temperature dropped. Was gonna stop at a town 60kms into ride but bugger all there and feeling strong so carried on. Road wound its way up tree covered valley of mixed woodland, Rain continuous and feeling very cold, got hot water for drinking bottle whenever I could. Had lunch in some bus stop place where portions were measly and she wanted 10Y so haggled to 7 although still overpriced.

Eventually got to top of pass air very cold here so stopped in a truck stop where a bloke was wrapped in a blanket and invited me to a seat. I just put on my fleece and gloves, got some hot tea and carried on. Really cold now, fingers, toes and knees freezing. After all the uphill Id done the 7km downhill was a bit disappointing, but so cold going downhill then flat along a plain, a sea of lush green young rice plants as far as eye could see either side of this straight narrow treelined road. Im sure this would be so impressive in the sunshine.

Came into a town and stopped next to a shop with people huddled around a rice cooker with steam coming out. They invited me to join them which I did and then I wanted to buy noodles from next door but the last bowl went to the person just before me. Looked around village but only cold pot stall food and need summat hot. Feeling a bit dizzy/odd and toes and thumbs tingly. Munched on my peanuts and raisins and carried on. Soon came to the Octagonal pavilion in a village along the way 20Y to get in. I thought it would be a Chinese pagoda but its actually part of a Dai temple complex, swifts darting in and out of small holes in the wooden roofing. Rain stopped, hurrah. Surprised it is 5pm. Final stretch, road filthy with muck and spray and quite a bit of traffic now. Acres of large polly tunnels across the entire valley floor, quite impressive to see so many and watermelons growing inside. Lots of people huddled around small fires as has been the case all long the way down this valley.

Arrived 6:30. Eating was first priority so had a big feed at friendly place, then in search of hotel – a lot of overpriced crap here. Not starlings settling in trees to roost at dusk but hundreds of swifts flitting about between the trees lining the city streets. Thought Id negotiated 60 for one but when Id got bags in and went to pay they wanted 80, room was crappy and still had condom wrappers , cigarette burns on floor and dingy so no ta. Looked at several more and ended up back at first one Id looked at  just up from resto. Its on a junction so was worried about noise but itll have to do. Room good, but solar heating means ice cold water. Sink had a plug so filled it with water from kettle and had a decent enough bird bath using a drinking glass. Fancied tea and biscuits but all small shops not selling anything munchable so gave up and just had tea in room. Nice to be under the quilt and reading a book. Really cold outside and everyone wandering about half frozen clasping thiers arms to body.



House martins roost in the Octagonal Pavillion



Menghai to Mengla   by bus

Overcast and cold. Found a noodle shop. Cold murky day. People gobbing everywhere. Bus station only over road. Had to pay driver and extra 10Y for bike and had to carry it on to roof rack and tie it down myself, later discovered Id torn muscle in shoulderblade, but yesterdays cold long ride probably not helped.

Short bus rode to Jinghong, ate lunch in tasty pot stall then another bus to Mengla. No rack on this so took front tyre off, lowered seat, slotted it into boot and made sure nothing was dumped onto wheels or they tried to bend bike into a funny shape ramming other parcels beneath/around it.

Beautiful scenery, very mountainous, some Dai villages still with traditional wooden homes and a lot of new build in the same shape but made from concrete, tiles etc. Saw one brand new house with the old wooden kitchen stuck onto the side. Toilets at halfway stop a stinking disgrace. Acres of rubber trees on terraces and then later deciduous forest mixed with bamboo. A lot of downhill and tunnels, the treelined old road running alongside new highway and looking tempting. Saw a cyclist coming up the highway fully panniered up despite no cyclists or other slow vehicle signs everywhere, surprised the cops hadn’t got him.

Weather better in Mengla and sun popped out by late afternoon. Looked at a load of places from bus station down road and all grotty and overpriced at 60Y. People here really ban nok. While I was looking at one place a bloke actually opened his door, hawked, gobbed in hallway and then went back inside. Filthy, although Ive seen people gobbing on halls and stairs of gh’s before. Wonder if they do it in their own homes. About to give up my search, but spied a new appt complex down an alley and what looked to be appt lobby area turned out to be hotel reception. Brand new rooms for 80Y after haggling. Pretty much same as the 60Y rooms Ive had all along but my room has a computer and internet access!

Went in search of a bank and discovered from a teller that there are no ATMs in town that give foreign cards money – arse! Back to Jinghong tomorrow then cos Laos ATMs are useless, usually don’t work and only give you 10p per transaction. Took a while to find somewhere that could figure out how to cook meat and veg, although it came as soup which was a surprise. Had a fizzy beer then bought munch from supermkt.

Mengla to Jinghong and back again  by bus

Eventually found a dumpling shop then onto bus for Jinghong for my 320km round trip to the atm. Sun out today and countryside looking better for it. Sun out in full at Jinghong so nice to feel warm. A lot more traffic about today too. Had lunch at pot stall in bus station again, woman surprised to see me again.

Walked down jade street to Bank of China and got money from ATM. Bank closed between 11 and 3 so went in search of money changers. Jade st people didn’t change cash but one helpful bloke took me to Agricultural bank which was open. Queued a while only to be told by skeleton staff Id have to wait for the foreign currency section to open at 3pm. Asked if they couldn’t just do it and complete paperwork later but they said no. Headed for bus station via small pleasant park, but decided better to wait than have hassle at border. If money changers there didn’t have dollars Id be in a fix.

Lots of old people playing Mahjong around rows of tables in a shady area, in park itself same scene- one area a kind of draughts with characters written on them- players looking thoughtful, another area was plain old cards with poker faced hordes sat around the shady concrete tables slapping cards down in the middle. Pleasure boats puttered around the small lake, little fish swam and a beautiful shiny peacock  blue kingfisher dived down and plucked one out of shallows right in front of where I sat. Had a beer and sat in a pagoda over the water, woman who sold it me in shop very rude grabbing my money off me and upset that Id actually opened fridge and spent less than a whole minute looking at the different beers before making my choice.

Went to bank just before 3. Guard and manager opened shutters and told people to step back – the armoured van was here to drop off money. A piece of theatre then commenced. Two blokes with shotguns and Kevlar vests hopped out of the side then took up position, scanning around and looking alert. When they gave the all clear 2 more blokes hopped out carrying steel boxes of cash and scurried into the building. They soon came out and hopped into van, followed by gunslingers and away.

Got ticket and waited turn in bank, number 4. At window asked to buy $50. Sorry , foreigners cant buy foreign currency! WAH. Manager came to help cos she spoke English. I told her my story about the trip here, waiting for 3 hours for bank to open and asked if she would buy the dollars and Id buy it from her. She agreed but $100 was minimum so I said yes. Very kind of her to help me and thanked her accordingly. Nice to meet someone a bit flexible!

Walked back to bus station and onto bus home. Hungry so decided to eat in place opposite bus station, wary cos no one in there but what the heck. Ordered off English menu- beef with sour bamboo shoots 15Y and chips 6Y. Sat at a table but young server girl decided I was gonna sit across the resto so plonked the stuff over there then actually called me over to eat it there. I told her to bring it to me, which after getting stroppy she actually did. Food ok but bamboo shoots very sour and would’ve had summat else had I known. Came to pay. The bill had magicked itself up to 32Y. Complained and it immediately went down to 28. Managed to get hold of the menu then showed the owner clearly that it was printed 15 and 6 – surely that makes 21? Apparantly the chef had used fresh bamboo rather than bamboo in a container – as if I have any control over the chef. Argued. I decided to walk out. She came after me and realized I was serious. Went back inside, they gestured to police sign on wall and I said yes, bring the police, maybe they can add up. Paid 23Y in the end (2Y for rice) and left.

1am loads of noise from teens arriving from night out – spent ages shouting to each other (talking Chinese style)  in hallway and taking ages to go in their rooms, doors banging. At least here it’s a key card so they don’t take ages trying to use a key which has happened in a lot of places Ive stayed . Adults arriving at 2 and 3am, same story, noise, tapping on doors farting about in general. Went out and shouted at a woman whod been banging on neighbours door for 10 mins. Seems there is no hotel etiquette here, or rather this is hotel etiquette here- hawwwwwwwwwwwwwwk.

Mengla  35km

Chatted in dumpling shop with Chinese bloke who could speak Thai for a while then set off to Bupan Aerial Park 15kms away. Nice ride through countryside past rubber and banana plantations. Bananas in a production line in field at edge of road being unwrapped from blue plastic, dunked in water then put into boxes and onto a waiting lorry. Arrived at the park, nobody spoke English, but soon figured out it was 60Y just to walk in the forest and an additional 100Y to go on the treetop walkway. Not spending that much so cycled back into town.

Had a look around a Dai village on way back, traditional wooden houses with wooden roof tiles, surrounded by big walls. Basically all roof, suppose sheltered and warm in winter and cool in summer. They all had solar water heaters. Some new blue tiled monstrosities had gone up too and looked really out of place.

Back in town got a plastic bag wrapped around rear derailer so had to take wheel off and spent a good 30mins digging it out of the cogs as it had jammed the whole thing up. Old Chinese pedicab bloke came to help, first wanting to burn it off but that would just seal it in, but he then found me a tooth pick (still with a relic of a picked piece of food on the end) to work away at the plastic, which eventually worked. Surprised bike totally disabled by a small placcie bag.

Ate at pot stall then back to gh. Had a wander in late afternoon and found a pleasant road leading off to a university/college with some traditional Dai houses along it too. Very peaceful residential area with good vibes, ate at popular pot stall there for only 4Y – lots of food too and owners really nice.

Field side production line



Traditional village home




Old meets new - solar water heating




Traditional wooden tiles compete with newer roofing materials




One of a few remaining traditional homes in the town centre



Border hop to Laos and Luangnamtha  by bus

Manager had agreed I could leave my bags at hotel so after dumplings I went up to bus station and caught 8:40 bus to LNT for 47Y. Wouldve been a quick journey but had to wait for an hour for paperwork on buses cargo to be completed. Couldve gone back to China same day if Id wanted. Sat outside an expensive Chinese run resto on Laos side. Wanted to eat but charging 22000kip (2 quid) for what youd normally get for 50p so didn’t bother. Eventually wandered up to next Laos resto and bought a bag of sticky rice for 2000kip to tide me over. Only an hour from here to LNT then into town on shared songtheaw for 10k chatting with an English couple who’d just got off bus from HuayXai. Ate bowl of foe then back to same gh as last time. 70k for room. Overcast sky and cool although sun eventually came out mid afternoon. Went for a beer and sat in sun outside a shop before dinner then joined English couple and a Thai general and his son in nightmarket for several beers.

LNT

­Felt a bit dodgy and hot in the night from all the beer but was ok. Megaphone news broadcast going in the morning. Misty morning – but I have an electric shower so plenty of hot water for me Ha! Wouldve been miserable if hungover in a dark cold room with no hot shower to wash the cobwebs away. Felt ok once mobile. Had omelet and coffee for bf then changed money and bought some bananas for 4000k in mkt before heading back to gh. Sun about to burn through the haze so did the large pile of laundry Id brought with me and by the time I hung it out the sun was blazing. Mixed veg and sticky rice for lunch then back to gh with biscuits to go with the tea I drank while watching a film in afternoon. Town feels really sleepy and not a lot going on. Last time I was here there were loads of cyclists and quite a few tourists but its really quiet at the moment.

Went for a sauna at 5 but the old boy was just stoking the vat of water up. Chatted with lady owner and theyd just rebuilt the sauna with brick so looks very sturdy. Only problem was took a long time to heat so didn’t really warm up till 6pm.Good once it was hot enough and made my shoulder blade feel better.

Pleasant warm evening- tshirt weather. Had pad kapow for dinner which was a Lao variant on the dish, then watched film at night. Nice lazy day.





Week 21 Yongda to Lancang 469 km cycled

Highlights: Paddies being planted with rice, Smiley people

Low blows: Dust, Rain and cold, Haaaaaaaawwwwwwwwk

Music of the week:  Chunga's revenge - Gotan Project

Yongda   Rest Day

Had a wander round the town and dumplings for breakfast, watching 2 blokes and 2 women prepare the pork paste and veg wrapped in pastry and put it on trays before steaming. Wandered through mkt, lots of fresh veg for sale, scruffy looking live chickens, a fancy looking one with bright white feathers and a fancy fluffy bonnet.

Bought some bananas, oranges, and strawberries all which tasted very good back in my room. Fruit price is quoted by the half kilo, nanas were 20p kilo, oranges 80p kilo and I just gave her 30p for a bag of about 20 strawberries. Had lunch in a pot shop, Internet café in afternoon run by friendly woman, then had a hair cut and shampoo. In eve went to same resto as last night but theyd sold all their pot stuff so had to have a plate made up. This town reminds me a bit of La Paz in Bolivia as its set on a hillside with steep side streets going down to each level.



No idea whats going on here




Cute wedding car



Yongda to Wumulong   91km

Reasonably warm this morning. Noodles for bf,  then nice downhill and a bit of flat for the first 50km. Impressive views heading down a valley onto a plain but air a bit smelly and polluted from factories in bottom. Wasn’t looking forward to the 40km uphill, but it turned out not that bad at all, reasonable gradient and almost flat in parts. Tree lined road winding its way up through lovely terraced hillsides of golden barley. Several older hilltribe people in traditional clothes, lots of chickens and pot bellied pigs scratching about at the roadside. Stopped off every 10km for a short rest. Was very hot to start but cooled down further up. Had lunch at Yalian at 62kms into ride then carried on, most amusing trying to mime toilet to the girls in the resto..

Reached top of pass at 84kms but downhill a bit disappointing cos road all broken up so couldn’t let fly. Nearly ran over a young boy who decided to dash across road without looking, skidded and only just missed him. Road went down a beautiful narrow gorge, high rocky cliffs on either side and a stream running alongside road, then big hillside being farmed, and some of rock being quarried. Arrived into the one road town of Wumulong at km91, earlier than I expected and lucky I checked where I was or Id have continued a while further on.

Quickly found decent hotel, lovely view out the back window of terraced hillside and rocky outcrop. Wandered up through town and tried to order food in a resto but young girl didn’t have the gumption to mix beef with vegetables, so went to one next door where they did. Soon had a tasty dish of veggies on rice in front of me and chatted with local blokes sat round a table drinking cherry brandy, a small bottle in front of each bloke, they offered me some and it tasted ok too.



Downhill into the misty valley




Locals take a break




Gorge-ous




View out the back of the hotel



Wumulong to Lincang 115 km

Had noodles in shop and a bit of a ‘chat’ with people in there. Pleasant start to day on a narrow road winding through pine trees, terraced hills and past small  adobe houses with barking dogs outside. People carrying large bundles of veg/wood on their back and one woman balancing a whole banana tree on her hoe – mustve weighed a ton.

 A lot of dust whipped up from beneath trucks labouring up the hills, just what I needed to breathe! After 15kms the start of a massive 35km downhill. Very hazy in valley so not much of a view but gradually cleared and got warmer until quite hot at bottom. Half way down backed up traffic, which I passed and came to the cause of it all - a broken down truck, although everything coming other way all chocker too so no chance of merely reversing it out of the way – big tail back and still people trying to skip ahead just making blockage worse. Whistled through and carried on my meander downhill through tree plantations. Most other land dry and crops already harvested.

Hit road construction in valley bottom, a mess of dust. Stopped away from road next to river for a rest before carrying on the next 15kms of dustfest, clouds being churned up by traffic but lucky there was the traffic jam up the hill or it’d be a lot worse Im sure! Shame cos really pretty stretch meandering along the riverside with blossoming trees and craggy gorges. Hit tarmac and ate in a truckstop place, then carried on to where main road was at km72. Turned right through a tunnel and then just plodded along the new highway, surface not smooth and a bloody headwind plus feeling tired so really labourious. Also busy road and every vehicle beeping which got to be annoying. Some really small hydro plants but good they can have such a micro industry to generate power, probably not cost effective in UK. Slogged on, bum and knees aching and eventually reached Lincang – loads of new building going on here.

Asked a bloke and found an ok place 60Y. Went to eat round corner but it was one of those rip off places with plates in cellophane (I asked price when that appeared on table and told them it was too expensive, would’ve been about 30Y just for food alone). Got on bike and found a place up road, dinner and 2 beers 22Y! Don’t like feel of this town, lots of people thinking they are hip in this ‘happening’ ban nok place. What is it that cities do to people? Maybe it’s the anonymity? Dont like the place anyway.



Rural traffic



Lincang to Shuangjiang 101 km

Busy main rd to start with annoying honking of traffic and learner driver Nissan patrols with red and white stripes on, packed with students weaving about. Turned out there was a test centre along the way which explained why there’d been so many yesterday and today. After 20kms onto old road and a lot quieter and winding through pretty countryside, pine trees and terraced small hills. Stopped off in a village for a break and a bag of crisps. Noticable difference in the people, lots of people shouting hello, approaching me when stopped and kids waving and greeting me then giggling. Must have crossed some invisible social barrier, maybe a different peoples here and a pleasant change too. Climate is warmer so maybe that’s got summat to do with it?

Easy riding up gradual gradients. Herders slowly walking with water buffalo down middle or edge of road. Stopped off for lunch in a busy place. Was looking forward to big downhill which started at km58 and was great zooming along smooth tarmac through the pines, but eventually hit major consrutction of the new road so had to negotiate dusty temporary roads on hillside as they dug and moved earth for the new route. Quite funny cos instead of having orange tape with orange flags on it to signify danger, they use multi coloured flags like you’d get at a village fair, so it looks like theres been a lot of parties all over the place. Took a wrong bit of dirt track when following motorbikes and we all had to uturn. 

Eventually onto tarmaced new road and into Shuangjiang. Glad to find a place quickly as tired and getting late (6ish). Ate at pan stall then got a load of munch from supermarket and a bottle of rice wine that I think is an imitation of buffalo grass vodka as it tastes the same – I expect its just a flavouring and not the real thing, slighty nutty.

Had a few  good slugs of the rice whisky and surprised to feel room wobbling around at just after 10pm, the curtains were moving too so figured out it actually was an earth tremor. Decided to go outside where quite a few people had gathered, one man in his bathtowel!  Seems everyones scared cos of all the quake coverage from Japan. Owner said it was ok so I went back to room, but left a grab bag and bottle of water next to door in case I had to make a quick exit.

Shuangjiang to Shangyun 72 km

Turns out quake was in Myanmar, 150kms north of ChiangRai, 1 person reported dead in Thailand cos a wall fell on them. Noodles for bf then off by almost 10am (bit fuzzy headed). Road ok to start but then onto new road that hadn’t been surfaced yet. Pretty quiet traffic wise but lots of dust when vehicles passed. Impressive to see gangs hand building huge stone walls. Had to wait in a few narrow sections for diggers to move rubble / put it in trucks etc and at one place for blokes knocking rocks of cliff face. Realised the sides of my legs were being nibbled at by a load of small black flies, really itchy bites and the buggers had drawn blood too!- bit like the small yellow conero flies in Bolivia. I was first to pick my way through rubble strewn road once the all clear was given before the Wacky Races show started.

Happy to reach tarmac at police checkpoint. Coppa reakoned it was good road for rest of way but soon went from tarmac, to unsurfaced new road, to road still being cut out of cliff face. No traffic control at one long stretch (3kms) and the road just a track halfway down rubble strewn banking, everyman for themselves and the convoy of trucks coming other way was winning. A massive wall of dust as they revved along the narrow way, loaded high with massive chunks of coal. I waited in a tiny side section until a gap and then went as fast as I could onto next gap and so on till Id cleared this dangerous section. Despite having lots of diggers and eqpt about there didn’t seem to be any workers – strike? Annoyed at no traffic control and covered in dust. One bloke had walked about 1km along the way to a corner so he could tell the people in his car when it was safe for them to proceed. Carried on through the custard powder and eventually back onto a decent surface again. Hard going.

One huge valley section looked like a Japanese painting with trees clinging onto barren rock, but also a bit like a recent bombing campaign as all rock freshly exposed to its new surrounds.  Impressed at the scale of this construction but also amazing devastation. Will be beautiful when finished as lovely forested valleys full of blossoming trees.

Road started to go up a bit and away from river,  land opened out into paddies being prepared and planted. Buffalos and cows dragging ploughs or a kind of skateboard with sticks in it, (bit like a large comb), people with tufts of rice separating them and making neat rows. Stopped off in one horse town for snacks and had a pot noodle, ice cream and fake pepsi which cost same as a real pepsi and tasted like those old cola icecreams, so a bit gutted.  Asked where I was on map, woman shop owner had bad eyesight, next bloke couldn’t read, so it was the young lad sat having pop who got the job. Loads of people shouting hello along way. Pretty knackered as not had proper food, but only another 12 kms up road and at the days destination.



Taxi rank



Breakfast - the one in the middle tastes like spaggy bog

First part of a long day of construction

Men high up the cliff knock down huge boulders with crowbars



Every man for himself (biggest vehicle wins)




Through the worst of it



Bottoms up



Preparing paddies for planting



Shangyun to Zhutang     60km

Woke in night to truck garage behind gh trying to fix a gearbox at 1:30. Noticed it was raining too so brought washing but it was already wet from rain. Mozzy also buzzing me and nibbling so put net up.

Struggle to get up, don’t think Ill drink that rice whisky anymore. Had noodles across road, lubed up bike and set off just before 10. Just out of town road was under construction, redirected on the old cobbled road for a bit, but I could see the tarmaced new road below so decided that would be a better way as long as it didn’t suddenly end, so dropped down onto it at next small workers track that came up.

A good move, easy going and no traffic to harass me, plus really didn’t fancy riding on cobbles. Road smooth for a while, then dirt and around sections where bridges were being built there was a detour road. Last nights rain had made these detour areas into muddy bogs, which were especially bad where a depot of some kind had heavy plant going in and out and churning the thick orange clay and silt up. Earth mover had to shove a stuck truck out of one section.

Amazing to see it all under construction, especially the shoring up of the hillsides – some massive sections having steel cable pushed into hillside by a machine and then large squares being wired together by hand before being cemented together into connected columns and rows, quite a feat of manpower and must be so expensive to do – I doubt the west could afford to build roads like this as the construction is epic. Carried on up up up, gorgeous views over valley and people plating rice in paddies below.

Sky starting to darken and wind whipping up. Nearing the top and cloud gusting across road with cold wind. Into tea plantations, sky jet black and hard to see in murky gloom. Threateneing to rain. Road ended so pushed bike up through a small settlement and was right on top of hill when massive drops began to fall, dashed under roof of nearby shop as did everyone else around and several people coming in off of tea plantations with umbrellas and plastic macs.

Wouldve been a good place to shelter except there was a really drunk guy who of course wanted to be my friend and show off to everyone else in there. Really loud and in my face and annoying. Trying to get me to drink booze then forcing fags on me and then a bottle of beer. I was really hungry, thirsty and was out of water so last thing I need is this. Also v cold despite changing into polyester top and fleece.

Thunder, lightening and low cloud-like fog, rain hurtling down. Rain lightened a bit after 30 mins and I was getting sick of the bloke mauling me so good motivation to head off. Got rain jacket on and left, but still raining hard and v cold (steam from breath) and 10m visibility. Slowly made my way down sludgy track following temp signage although lots of criss cross tracks not making things easy. A workshop appeared out of the cloud so asked bloke in there and he pointed me in right direction. Soon on tarmac and out of cloud, still raining tho and cold. Heading downhill, soaked, all workers snug in their tents round fires and swigging tea. Plantation workers picking tea though, wrapped in plastic sacks, they must be freezing! Carried on down, through sludge at points, but started pushing bike over bridges that were still being wired cos the cranes go on them to lay the huge concrete sections so safe enough for me to cross. Worried about getting punctures from sharp wire so cautious.

Past cranes lowering in concrete sections onto bridges. Eventually stopped raining and sun came out, hurrah. Arrived at bottom of valley and onto normal road, glad Id been on new road despite my adventure cos a lot of traffic and that would’ve made it unbearable I think. Ate in a shack up the road and then carried on. Decent road in parts, but still some under construction. Chain unhappy to be covered in grit and mud, and sounding bad. Fed up. Odometer packed up too, probably cos of rain. Kept going up, lots of workers giving me thumbs up. Plod plod, trying to dry stuff out a bit from handlebar bag as drenched. Some bloke had bagsied a small hillock to make his workmans shelter on, quite funny to see.

Road eventually leveled off and in an area with limestone hilly outcrops. Arrived town of Zhutan 6:30 ish. Found gh under renovation, room ok and only 40k although only had a flannel sized hand towel available. Sprayed off mud on bike and bags, then warmed up in the hot shower. Ate tasty dinner (pricey at 20k) while it rained. Cold here. Thought itd be a nice quiet room but theres a peasants shack in the allotment behind with Tv a blaring; thankfully they went to bed at 10.

Shoring up the hillside



Epic scale construction




The storm cometh




Out the other side- not impressed!




Best little shack on site



Zhutang to Lancang   30 km

Still raining in morning, although not too heavy. Went and found a shop for limited snacks and had 2 bowls of noodles as feeling hungry and cold. Decided not to head further into mtns reasoning that the views wouldn’t be up to much, itll be colder and the weather is likely to be worse if yesterdays mtn experience was anything to go by! Decided to head to Lancang just up the road. Set off 10am in fleece and raincoat along good road.

Rain eased up and eventually stopped. Initial uphill – 2 dogs attacking me so stopped and threw stones, then long downhill giving me plenty of spray off my tyres into my face if going too fast. Had a stretch along old road, really pretty windy section with blossoming trees and through villages. Turn off to Lancang, followed a road soon busy with local traffic into town. Had a look at a grotty place – room not cleaned yet but why anyone would want to leave it in that state is weird – filth all over floor, cigarette buts and crap everywhere.  Found a decent one up road with friendly staff and clean rooms for 50Y.

Sunday is mkt day so had a wander round after lunch. Sunday for locals means getting drunk and shagging in short time hotels, as well as shopping at the mkt. Mainly fruit and veg, but also hundreds of baby chicks and yellow ducklings all chirping away, cake stalls of which I got a massive lump for 3Y and ate the lot. People finding me amusing to look at with my shorts and sandals on. Hot sun came out in afternoon – nice!

Went on internet, found a supermkt and bought lots of crap to eat (including more cake), and slobbed out. This town has to have the most uneven pavements anywhere, almost every single tile is out and because it’s been wet they squirt water up when you tread on them.

Pumpkins weren't a favourite at today's market



A Bong for all occasions



Week 20 Longchuan to Yongda 472 kms cycled

Highlights: Hospitable locals, strawberries, downhills

Low blows: Pump stolen, nasty accommodation

Music of the week: Stevie Wonder – Everything is alright

Longchuan to Ruili  30km

Chilly start to day. Wanted to buy a papaya from mkt, but expensive so got dumplings instead and took them back to warmth of room to eat them and drink tea while the sun warmed the day outside.

 A bit of flat then pretty much 15kms uphill, which was ok but tedious. Eventually got to top and then big downhill before arriving in Ruili less than 2 hours later. Rattan palm lined avenues and lots of stuff for sale – phones and shiny things. Found a nice hotel for 50Y then went and ate before having a wander about.

Went down to mkt, the meat section pretty grim, but also had a live section with chickens, geese and further along scared snarling dogs in small cages. A few boiled dog carcass lying around, lovely. Wandered through fish section and onto veg then normal stuff. Lots of traders fast asleep as now afternoon. Bought a cup of fresh blended soy beans, which wasn’t that great, a bag of green tea and some juicy oranges. Later went up to jade mkt, lots of shops selling jade in various colours, shades and forms. Bought some betel nut to munch on way back to room.

Later went to internet café, passive smoking de rigour here. Went out on bike to find a resto at night and eventually found a street full. Asked girl price of my dish and she said 15, so I said ok. Plastic wrapped plates came out so sent that away. Food came, I ate it but when I went to pay the price had somehow changed to 27. Talked with woman owner but she got all eggy. They made a big show outside, but I stuck to my guns and eventually agreed to pay 20. Fancied some beer but only 3.3 per cent stuff around, or Budweiser so decided not to bother. Lots of Burmese around the town.



Slice of dog anyone?



Nap time at the fish stall

Who needs green fingers when youve got plastic



More gastronomic treats (yes, the turtles ARE dead)



Ruili  40km

Did some laundry and stuck it on roof to dry. Had ravioli for bf then went for a spin around countryside, once off main road followed a quiet tree lined road through farmland, tobacco and loads of other stuff in production including a pine tree nursery. Back to gh by lunch.

Found a pot stall and ate there before going to another wholesale mkt area for clothes but which also had huge carvings from wood or stone. Some of the work not bad but mainly just ostentatious ‘look how rich I am’ type stuff. Not much style to it. Internet café in pm, someone nicked the pump off my bike while I was in there too, so had to get a new one from supermkt next to gh for 3 quid. Ate in cheap pot shop for tea and had a small tin cup of rice whisky, which burnt my lips but didn’t have that much of an effect for the amount I drank.



Load of bull, one of the better carvings on offer



Ruili to Mangshi  96km

Overcast all day. Busy road with lots of trucks and cars, some passing within a whisker of me despite having the dayglo thing on the bag. Mainly uphill and a boring ride. Came upon a long tail back halfway. A mobile crane had got too close to a car in front and smashed it rear window, looks like they had stopped in road and then a truck had run into back of the crane. Not a mark on crane but the trucks front end was mashed into a thin section, steering wheel folded and cab destroyed – driver mustve been killed. Police directing traffic.

Got to top of hill and then a 9km downhill spoiled by all the vehicles that had been waiting in queue now going past and playing wacky races with each other. Surprised there weren’t anymore crashes with blind bend overtaking. Lorries incessant honking a real drag.

Ate at small pot stall for lunch. Weather quite cold and threatening to rain. Flowering privit hedges lining the road for miles. Black soot in my nose from all today’s diesel smoke. Arrived Mangshi 4ish. Found a place just as it started to rain. Nice room for 60k. Once rain slowed wandered for ages until I found a place to eat. Quite cold now, got my tracksters and red jacket on much to amusement of local people as looks a bit odd. I’m warm and dry so don’t care.



Danger lurks around every corner



Mangshi to  Longxin  55km

Overcast nearly all day and cold. Ate noodles round corner from hotel, established there wasn’t a short cut through mtns (to knowledge of hotel staff anyway) and set off about 10. Uphill all way - very busy road lots of trucks and not wide either so didn’t enjoy it. Back tyre squidgy too. After police check at top of hill (looking for heroin from Myanmar) stopped off for lunch in Longling and got tyre pumped up before carrying on for more uphill.

Latched onto a few tok toks and trucks as found it hard going. Eventually reached turn off and lovely quiet road winding through terraced farmland. Lots of spuds being grown. Many encampments of tents quarrying away at the river bed, extracting the giant off-yellow stones/pebbles that are sold in Ruili and displaying them for sale at the roadside. Big pot works too.

Carried on to Longxin and stopped at post office to ask where a place to stay was. Bloke in there really helpful, he sat me down and called a few places but all full, he eventually turned up with a few English teachers and we sat round back of post office while they and a bunch of people decided what to do with me. Policeman checked my passport and they kept me entertained till they found a place round the corner, very dingy wooden room upstairs in a restaurant but right enough – not like I can complain is it! Cost 30Y.

Put my stuff in and then ate some food before being taken on a tour of town to local school, police station and then to a lake outside of town by bloke from PO and his friend, a policewoman. We took a bamboo raft across the reservoir (water very low at this time of year) to a small island. All terraced hills around here in full agricultural production. Blokes on rafts go fishing in day too. I jumped off raft first and ended up ankle deep in mud! Washed it off. We climbed to top of small hill for a view, we had a good laff.

Back into town. I ate again and then we chatted and drank tea around a bowl of glowing coals for a while as now cold. Went to bed 9:30. Once again impressed by local hospitality. I know they possibly didn’t want to, but when Chinese decide to be hospitable they are superb. Best reception that Ive had anywhere, ever;  which says a lot.



On the road




Upland farming




English teachers to the rescue




Beautiful view - Potatoes!!!




Guo Hao and Lin Yan Bo, my hosts for the afternoon



Longxin to MangNuo  85km

13km out town downhill along river. The yellow stones of all shapes and sizes being quarried far down in river below then cleaned, polished and for sale at roadside- wonder what type of rock they are? Must be worth a lot as some huge efforts at excavations going on even diverting bits of river pumping out the pool and then getting at it with large eqpt.

Specks of silica in road looked like shiny glass. Great downhill, cold. Asked directions a few times at splits in road. A couple of small hydro power stations along the way. Road eventually degenerating into dust/dirt and then an annoying cobbled section. Tried to keep to the sandy edges wherever possible but a real pain even for the brief 15km stretch I was on.

Lots of flowering trees, lovely scenery but quite hot. Hungry and thirsty. Eventually arrived on tarmac for last 18km into Mangnuo, big factory, a lot of glass on road in town. Had noodles on arrival as starving. Terrible choice of accommodation, looked at a few crappy overpriced places and ended up in a real dump but 40k so ok - chose it cos got a good feeling from  woman whose really nice -all other places just lazy teenagers. Cracked bath and buggered bog. Room Id originally picked was quiet but had no power, so moved to one overlooking the towns roundabout so bound to be noisy, it’ll have to do. Karaoke wailing at night directly across road so watched movie till 11, then covered my head with pillow and it didn’t seem to go on too late.



Hamtastic



Inner courtyard and dining section of my accomodation

Mr Bean's motor, Chinese style

Mangnuo to Mangbeng  67km

Up at 8. Slept pretty well. Hadnt caught Aids from dirty room. Ate bf downstairs, then set off.  Flat and a bit of a hill to start, groups cutting sugar cane in fields with an over see-er, cows and bulls tied to trees  at roadside munching on cane stalks and waiting for a load to be ready to carry in their saddle bags, or pull a cart. Some really beautiful countryside.

Downhill and crossed river on a bridge then started 25km climb. Large stream tumbling down rocky channel. Lots of flowers in bloom, trees in particular, every inch of terracable land in production, lots of autumnal colours, browns, golds, yellows, pine trees mixed with deciduous and clumps of bamboo. Head wind channeled down gorge onto me so tough going in parts, leaves on bamboo rustling, legs tired.

Eventually got near top and had bag of crisps and some more dates Id been munching on all morning. Nearly broken my teeth twice, yesterday there was a small stone in the dried raisins I was snacking on and today my pitted dates weren’t as pitted as they should have been. Over top and start of a downhill. Found a small resto to eat in in a village so had a big feed and then set off, downhill/flat pretty much all the way and stunning scenery, massive hills to one side, lots of smaller hills in middle and sweeping into plain below, really beautiful and so happy to be cycling amongst it all. Eventually onto plain, golden barley being harvested, some green and some beautiful lilac coloured flowers in some fields amongst the golds and yellows of other crops. Been saying hello to people Ive passed all day and the only real response I got was from a bloke humping huge bags of freshly tractored grain who grinned cheek to cheek when I said hello. Most of Chinese just sit their impassively. Even the kids don’t say anything, such a contrast to Laos, or Thai kids.

Small town but found a really nice place to stay first try – 60k all mod cons. Nowt in town, had a small dinner as still full from late lunch.

The preferred, 2 wheeled option

First of the day's lovely scenery



Looking back down a long uphill section



Another cracking view



The best scene of the day



Mangbeng to Yongda   89km

Misty morning. Got take away dumplings and freshly fried crinkle cut chips for bf, ate them back in the room while waiting for morning to warm up. News on TV very repetitive, all waffle. I was annoyed at a report that Japanese people haven’t returned to normal-  ie going shopping, Im sure that’s the last thing on people’s minds right now with thousands dead,  homeless and nuclear radiation leaks– ooh think Ill do a bit of shopping!

Set off 9:30. Easy downhill along a river and down a lovely forested gorge, blossoming trees and singing birds. Had to show passport at police checkpoint at valley bottom so got changed into warm weather clothes while I waited. Then start of a 40km uphill.

Had lunch in town on way up and got a take away too for later on. Road pretty good surface all way winding its way up the valley, tree-lined all way so not too hot and lots of vegetation and farming on the terraced hills. Stopped off every 10kms for a rest. The first 20km was ok but started to feel knackered after that and just slogged it out. 10kms before pass there was a bit of a downhill and along through a village which was a welcome respite before final effort to top along a not too steep gradient that was much more do-able. Several tombs set into fields on hillside – cyclists who didnt make it perhaps? J A group of about 7 beautiful blue birds in a tree and flew across road and into bushes down banking, very long tales which they fanned out when landing in trees, wide at body end and thinning out to a taper at tip of tail, vivid blue with brilliant white zigzag edging, very impressive. Bit like a kite. Must be mating season as have seen lots of birds along the way for the whole trip, lots of wagtails esp.

Made it to top of pass and ate my take away. Tea plantation in neat rows, a group of giggly women just finishing work and walking along track. View into valley with Yongda far below. Had a good rest then started downhill, road winding its way down through pines and round contoured hills which were a patchwork of browns greens and oranges. Road knackered half way and to bottom so my 26km downhill reward not so sweet as avoiding huge potholes. Passed a lot of stone masons whose designs were the best Ive seen so far, bit more artistic style to them. Big circular saw blades cutting into huge slabs of stone.

Ended up on a brand new wide section of road leading to the town, pity they’d not spent a bit of this cash on the knackered bit futher up. Yongde set on a steep hillside so up a big hill to 1^st hotel. Had a look at some rooms and tried to get young girls to let me have em for 60Y per night but they wouldnt budge, so found a place up road instead, better rooms and only 50Y after haggling. Mustve been first foreigner to ever stay here cos 6 police arrived and made me wait about an hour while they typed in my details to hotels computer. Was asked what I was doing here and why I came here etc so got map out and talked about my bike trip. Pain in arse cos Im knackered and all I wanted to do was have a shower and relax, lucky Id eaten earlier too. Sat and waited for them to finish then was taken to my room. During the time theyd been putting my details into computer, the room Id picked had been given to someone else, but this one was better as it was huge and had a mahjong table in it in a kind of lounge corner bit, almost a suite! Wandered up road and found a pot place to eat and had a beer, before back to room and bed.



Shady lane keeps the sun at bay




Pleasant distraction en route




Tea pickers make their way home, Yongde far in the distance below