Week 29 Dawu to Lijiang 319km cycled

Highlights: Quality scenery, BIG downhills, some lovely people

Low blows: Bust Spoke, map telling porky pies

Music of the week:  Atlantis (I need you) - LTJ Bukem

Dawu

Felt comfy in house and wanted to have a look round Dawu, so spent the day here. Dumpling woman happy to see me again. Wandered around town in morning, then back to house for a bit. My sandals are stinking. Chatted with a visiting bloke and woman from house. Owner invited me for lunch – a big silver round metal washing up type bowl full of a gravy, some veg and meat. Theyd already eaten so I was free to trawl the bowl with my chopsticks looking for things that looked ok. Fished mainly for green leaves and slices of potato. Tried a piece of meat but it was of the matured variety so a bit funny tasting to me.

In afternoon went to look at the local temple. Massive stupa with Buddhas inside glass cabinets high up on the turret. In the ‘cellar’ underneath a load of small prayer wheels. Around the stupa an elaborate snaking set up of the 2.5m prayer wheels. I span them all (375 altogether), which took effort to get some going. Behind me a gang of old ladies was speeding along, turning all the wheels and soon caught me up so I let them pass, pro’s in the wheel spinning with far better technique than mine. Had a look inside main prayerhall, some beautiful murals on the walls. Behind the main altar a 1000 armed Indian goddess, each hand having an eye tattoo’d on it.



Massive stupa at Dawu




Behind the main altar a 1000 armed Indian goddess



Kanding to Xichang  by bus

Cold start. Off to bus station, just round corner at 5:30am. Woman wanted to charge me 50y for bike, but I made a fuss and eventually got past her and over to her bosses desk where they just let me go through. Really disorganized station. Passengers just left to wander a car park full of buses with a number printed on a small board displayed in bus window. This number corresponds with one on your ticket so you have a huge crowd wishing to travel wandering up and down a cramped area with baggage trying to find their bus. 

Set off at 6am heading down gorge, wild water tumbling down river and down a long way till we met another huge fast flowing river in the valley bottom. Road good but eventually deteriorated into dust as ongoing construction. Chinese cyclists braving this road.  Driver had an excessive hours break. I bought boiled eggs for bf and then we went along the worst section of dust road, so driver was probably holding back in anticipation of this stretch. A dust fest with tons of trucks, 4x4’s and buses all jockeying for position and several traffic jams where work was on going. On good road 2 hours later (as far as road had been completed) and zoomed along up the side of valley. Lots of tunnels and stilit sections under being built. Stripped off warm clothes as now v hot outside. Stopped off for tasty lunch for 13Y– liver and veg . Road eventually made its way up out of valley and onto a high plain joining expressway. 

Arrived Xichang 4pm, chain oil all over one of bags. Changed into shorts in a shop then in search of gh. Soon found a street with loads hotels/knocking shops with ‘well used’ rooms all at 60Y. Went a few blocks further on and got a crap room 50Y near mkt reasoning at least itll be quieter later on. Very hot here and flushed Chinese all wandering about, blokes in vest and shorts. Found a Bank of China ATM and went to eat noodles on whore st as loads of shops there. Fixed a bust spoke on front wheel (occurred on bus ride Dawu to Bamei I think), couldn’t get wheel perfectly true but reasoned a slightly wobbly wheel was stronger than one with a spoke missing! Had a few beers from an icey cold supermarket  fridge over road.

Turned out bed was knackered with a strange ridge in it where shoulders rest. Really uncomfortable. Pulled curtains back to reveal window popped off runners so managed to wrestle that back on. A/C also seemed to work but during night Id wake up sweating and it would be pumping out warm air as knackered. Mozzies also in action so eventually put up net during night. Groan!

Dog enjoying a nap 

Xichang to Pingchuan   105km cycled

Light rain in morning but looked like it would blow over and it did. Found a dumpling shop. Set off 9 ish across the city which turns out is quite large and Id just landed on the northern tip. Soon alongside a lake then through countryside, rice paddies and vegetables in this warm Thai like climate. After 28kms arrived at a village, according to my Nelles map this was where my turning was. Stopped and asked some truck drivers where road was – they said there wasn’t a road and Id have to go back to Xichang to get on right one! Looked at Chinese map and what they said was correct, although I spied a small track marked on other side of river so asked if it was possible to cross over and get on that. Driver said I had to go 7kms up road to a bridge. Thanked them and set off.

Kept checking along way for bridge as couldn’t see river from road but eventually arrived at cable bridge 7kms later as bloke had said. Asked motorbike bloke if there was a way down and he said yes. Decided to double check with people in another shop and they said there was no way and would have to go back. I sensed they didn’t have a clue so decided to go over bridge anyway. Had a rest and ate yesterdays bread then off along a narrow concrete road. Stopped at a junction and flagged down a bloke on a motorbike, who said the way was right then straight all way (lucky I asked cos the larger road went wrong way).

Followed this smooth lane for next 17km, through small villages and fields Loads of onions being grown here and air filled with tangy scent.  Rode through a small town, road now broken up and trucks arriving to load up sacks of onions. Eventually arrived at a junction and had food in a small resto, 4 egg omelet and rice 7Y.  Asked the way, there was the old road marked by signs, but everyone was urging me to go a different way. Was gonna ignore them at first but when I got to junction 2 other blokes were pointing me up road so decided to trust them as quite insistant, and that way was along smooth black tarmac which seemed a good idea.  A few kms along that arrived at a smooth concrete road. Bloke had caught up with me on his motorbike and pointed me left up the hill, said thanks.

Up this brand new road, fairly steep, schoolkids and adults wandering home through fields and up road. We are back in ‘look and stare with a blank expression’ territory as no one acknowledges my hellos or smiles. After only 6kms, surprised to come to a 3.5km long tunnel. Put on lights and then started a 15km downhill on brand new road. A rock kicked off hillside by a goat landed just in front of me – another fraction of a second and Id have been hit! Nice cruise downhill and into a steep narrow valley. Eventually hit bottom and had to climb for a while, then another tunnel, steel barrier only allowing vehicles under 2m, trucks having to go around the mtn on another track. Some bloke decided to park just inside lip of tunnel in shade (and Ive seen this before), no lights on and practically invisible to approaching traffic – nuts. Uphill again and then nice downhill into valley bottom and over a large bridge.

Final 10km uphill beside sediment brown river. Tired and glad to arrive at Pingchuan at 5ish. Found a gh. They showed me 60Y room on 4^th floor, wouldn’t haggle and I couldn’t be bothered pushing it so took room, showered, then went and ate. Chatted with friendly resto owner and his policeman friend before back to room and rest. 



Ortlieb's new 'tank proof' range panniers



Rural scene



Would this bridge lead me the right way? 




Almost out of a long tunnel



Pingchuan to Yanyuang  59 km cycled

The creased forheads and blank disbelieving stares I received cycling along were comic. Also no hellos. Uphill for next 30kms, gradient only easing off towards end. Lots of beekeepers on corners of upper stretches selling roadside honey and clouds of bees buzzing in and out of lined up box hives. Set off feeling strong and decided to stop to rest every 10km, knees aching. Some pretty blossoming flowers, including rhodededrums, which actually look good scattered about the hillside. Up, up up, dates are no good as a snack food, no energy from them. Feeling tired for last 10k, rain across valley and spots just making it over here, luckily wind blowing it away from me.

Hill topped out at 30km then great downhill for 20km, first part light rain so sped on to pass that and onto a wide plain full of fields planted with all sorts of crops, and strips of plastic with new plants poking through. The last 10km of ride was an uphill on a pine tree lined road, no energy now and really flagging. Stopped for a rest as town nowhere in sight, but 4km up road and out of pine trees the town appeared! Stopped in first place I saw and got a massive serving of egg fried rice and a free bowl of veg soup. V friendly owners, so we all had a chat and their kids came to inspect the foreigner too and gave me a fresh nectarine, people had been selling these in small baskets by roadside along the way. Nice people. Seems like the hill was another magic boundary cos everyone in this town really friendly and helpful). Soon found a brand new gh, room 50Y and made yesterdays efforts overpriced. Showered, had a look at bus times for tomorrow and ate in busy resto, aided by a gang of young Chinese who came straight over to help me order as I was having trouble when I got in there and too busy to walk into crowed kitchen to point at stuff. This is quite a big town and people look far more switched on than in last nights place.

 The older women here still wear traditional clothing which consists of a large black hat, a bit like a big kite stuck on their head draped with black cloth, a pleated skirt, some with thick horizontal bands of colour (blues) and embroidered waistcoats.



Highly productive fields surround Yanyuang



Yanyuang to Lijiang    by bus

Worried that if I don’t get issued a visa I wont have sufficient time to get out of China. Having determined there was a bus I bought a ticket for 110Y. Funny to see most of townfolk wandering round like its really cold in morning and gawping at me in my shorts – they should head further north for real cold! Soon warmed up with the glaring sun. Ticket said bus left at 11, so went up road at 10:30 and waited. Bus eventually arrived at 11:30, ended up with seat over back axle and opposite an ocean of spew from the previous passengers. Jolly good. Driver attempted to slot my bike in in an impossible space, so I rearranged a few bags, took front wheel off and it went in easy.

Bus rattled along at high speed. The route was supposed to be 370km (according to bus station chart), which seemed excessive, but all became clear as Lugu Lake came into view, much to the excitement of the Chinese couples on the bus who started madly snapping away as the lake whizzed by the window.. Route went on a new road around the north of the lake then up tiny windy dusty tracks through the pine trees, occasionally joining bits that had been finished as most road here still under construction. Took 2 hours to almost circumnavigate the lake and now 4:30.

Once out of lake, heading down steep windy mtn road, rocks, pine trees and blossoming flowers, lots of clumps of pink bushes dotted amongst the green, really beautiful. Up and down valleys. Bloke with bad guts got off and disappeared for a long while then as he was coming back to the bus clutched his stomach and went for round 2 in the bushes. I fished out some Imodium and fed it to him on his return or the bus would never get to Lijiang. Road improved and driver got even faster, bombing round hairpin bends with precision. Knew we were getting near when we headed into a valley with a huge dammed river, thick stringy oil slicks? in some parts. Whizzed up over onto a plain and yellow lights of Lijiang in distance – hallelujah! Bus stopped on a corner, so I got out happy to be off the bus at last 9pm. Found a gh opposite where Id alighted and got a room for 40Y. Grabbed a cold beer from a few doors up road and then ate in cheap friendly resto next door. Finally crashing into bed at 10:30, taking buses is more exhausting than riding!



Awash with spew. Fortunately not the only spare seating on the bus 



Lugu Lake whizzes by

Dawu to Xinbuqiao  63km cycled

Up at 6am, quick wash then up to bus. Very cold this morning. Eventually got bike into hold after a song and dance from driver wanting 20Y just to put bike in. There was loads of bag space in bus and no one brought much cargo anyway so driver just being an arse. Young pop star looking Tibeten sat next to me with Tina Turner hair do, diamond earring with spike on back, aviator sunglasses and silver puffa jacket. He sang along in a high pitch deaf mute whine to his mp3 player. Got my ipod on and bounced along the road, which was icey in places and dust solidified to ground for most of way. Hills all dusted with snow and valleys that sun hadn’t warmed yet. Mustve zoned out while riding this section as couldn’t recall a lot of it.

Arrived Bamei 10am. Had a massive steaming bowl of ravioli type stuff, then found a quiet tree lined lane to change into tracksuit and riding gear. Despite sun out Im still wearing wooly hat, wooly socks and fleece. Set off, beautiful smooth cement road almost all the way. Gentle uphill for first 30km, lots of shales, some grey clay and some coal near top of pass, then a descent and flat to Tagong. Like riding through peak district.

Stopped off at resto near a large monastery, load of horses outside. Sat in yard eating fried rice and admiring view of snow covered mtn range and temple, as tibeten pop music blared from resto’s loud speaker. Some Chinese in 4x4s posing for photo’s and a gang of local kids posing with them. Young girl from resto came to talk with me, think they were all bored as parents didn’t seem to want owt to do with them. She helped push my bike off when I left. Down hill around corner was Tagong town, one road lined with shops and a massive monastery at the end, the hill behind adorned with prayer flags and writing. I had expected the Tagong grasslands to be vast areas of tall grass wafting in the wind, not the harsh moorland type environment I actually encountered. Nice downhill section outside the town, massive boulders in river and up the hillsides amongst the pine. Then onto a floodplain for rest of way, shallow gravel riverbed. Lots of colourful castle like houses along the way and some homes using local slate for roofing, just laying layers on top of each other. Road came to junction heading to Litiang on Southern Tibet Highway route and immediately turned to dust and rubble. This is a really busy route cos there’s hardly been any traffic all day and as soon as I ventured onto the broken road there were tons of 4x4s and trucks all going along and churning up the good stuff ( maybe theyd been waiting specially for my arrival!) got the bandanna dust mask on and carried on.

Was trying to establish if the town marked on my map was this scattering of housing. A bloke said he had accom, but didn’t want to stay here if there was a larger settlement nearby. Carried on for a look, and more houses. Stopped at a grubby place that wanted 100Y, didn’t even bother looking at room. A load of police had stopped outside so asked them and they said carry on up road. 2kms further on was the actually town, fairly large and soon found a comfy place for 60Y after haggling from 80. Covered in dust from the last 7kms so into a welcome hot shower.

Chatted with 2 girls with really good English at dinner. They say road to Kanding is good – we shall see.



The Tagong grasslands not unlike the Peak District




Pleasant lunchtime view




Friendly local kid




Hillside adornments just outside Tagong town




Typical Tibetan rock carvings



Xinbuqiao to Kanding   78km cycled

Cold start to day. A lot of Chinese cyclists in town en-route to Lasa. South road must be ‘the one’ for some reason. Had dumplings up road and a rip off small bowl of broth (on their suggestion) with some slices of beef in it (no noodles or owt else). It cost 15Y a bowl so no wonder they were punting it out. Several people balked at the price when they came to pay. Set off down valley passing a few Chinese cyclists Id seen in resto earlier. Flat for 25km then started to head up valley, lots of people selling the caterpillar fungus along way (just stood at side of road holding plastic bags up), Yaks grazing too and a lot of purple flowered heather like shrub although it wasn’t heather. Also saw some large fat ferret like creatures bobbing across a field – think they were ‘snowpigs’.

Soon turned up another valley and heading toward snowy peaks of pass. Workmanlike cycle up the winding road. Heard and saw a cuckoo sat on phone wire.  Reached top of pass by noon. Loads of Chinese cyclists up there so went for a chat. Theyre all heading to Lasa. Good to see them with all sorts of cheap mtb’s, dressed in whatever clothes they happen to have and just getting on with it. Lots of Chinese still making their way up the winding road. Lobbed a snow ball at top and  posed for photos, then superb 35km downhill all the way to Kandging, where I had a much needed bowl of noodles.

Located bus station and got ticket for tomorrow then in search of accommodation. Looked at several crappy places but all wanting 60 – 100Y, the 60’s were bad. Tried haggling but no! Eventually found a cubbyhole room for 20Y and shared bath. Pleased to find there was hot water so sat in a big plastic bowl and had a good wash. Wandered up food street nearby. Kanding is a dump of a town, but apparently it is popular spot cos of a love song.

Trucks use water stations like these. The water drips onto their brakes and cools them on long descents 



Before the uphill, snowy peaks and pass in the background




Scabby Yaks along the way




Getting closer




At the top of the pass with a bunch of Chinese cyclists heading for Lahsa



Start of the long downhill for the rest of the day



Still going down




Colourful bed in my box room, which they still managed to cram a TV into, just

Week 28 Bamei to Daufu 75km cycled

Highlights: Interesting temples, exotic locals, friendly people

Low blows: 2 flat tyres, crappy ‘roads’

Music of the week:  Shaa mowne M.F –  its Michael Jackson’s Greatest Hits

Bamei to Daufu   75km

Had a good sleep. Chatted with an old Ozzie couple in reception who were doing a tour by 4wd, woman suffering from altitude with headache. Somehow managed to get a rear puncture the 100m up road to noodle shop, gave me opportunity to swop tyres over as rear using up more tread than front so did that before setting off by 9:30. Road soon deteriorated into base layer ready for surfacing - dust, pebbles, ruts and custard powder and stayed like that all the way, small patches of original road popping up now and then just to remind you how it used to be and would be again in the future, but for now you can just suffer this never ending bouncing along dust fest. Glad it was reasonably flat if nothing else but had bandana over face all day and covered in dust.

Pretty boring ride due to bad conditions. Scenery still Brecon Beacons green hills, yaks and horses grazing in the sun, although it clouded over for a few hours during hottest part of day. Bought a pot noodle for lunch and sat in a stone compound with 2 logs for table and chair. Half way through my lunch a load of workers arrived in tok toks and all went into an outbuilding, as it was lunchtime I knew there was food inside. Wandered over and got some rice, tofu and fatty meat dumped in my pot, which filled me up properly. Id had to pretty much invite myself in to get food here, but the several groups I passed later on eating under trees by roadside all shouted for me to come over and eat with them.

Bag bouced off a few times, and nose full of dust, wind blowing plumes away for a while. Laborious slog. Stopped off to take a pic of a new wooden house under construction and got waved over by two portly ladies to a hut. They served me bowl after bowl of hot tea they were brewing from a huge pan for the workers, and gave me a round flat piece of tasty bread. Chatted with them for a bit, one woman had beetroot red ruddy cheeks and gold teeth. A gaggle of kids soon appeared, each wearing a baseball cap, so chatted with them and told them the names in English of the motifs on them, Mickey Mouse, NYC, Rabbit, Flower. Good fun. Eventually set off again, road had been on a plain but now started to descend which made things a lot easier although still having to keep an eye out and brake cos of potholes and rocks everywhere. Refilled water from a flask on a table outside poilcebox – didn’t know anyone inside but they came out so we had a chat. A beautiful valley came up along with perfect smooth tarmac for the final 5km of ride, if only the rest of the ride had been this pleasant.

Lovely sturdy Tibetan houses and lots of characters wandering about the town. Had a look in 1^st hotel, posh rooms for 160Y and shared toilet rooms for 30Y, would’ve taken it but no flask provided to wash in and only a sink on full view. Im caked in dust, grey from waist down so need a good wash. Carried on up road and found a homestay in one of the massive Tibeten houses. Only 30Y too for a room off the kitchen. Had a hot shower – first time Ive ever taken a shower with 2 large pieces of dried yak meat hung in the corner, did laundry, then ate a curry noodle soup up road. This is actually a big town, big police presence.

House made with thick wooden pillars, and everything else wood too, all painted with colourful motifs and patterns. Downstairs is an entry hall and storage area, upstairs a large landing, then massive living room, kitchen, a magical prayer room with prayers coming out of a small radio thing, picture of Dalai Lama and lots of buddhas in glass cases and oil candles burning. Really lovely house, maybe so huge cos they have to spend a lot of time indoors during cold months. Chatted  a bit with family using my book. One of daughters had just had a 2 month old baby. Old man of house said it wouldn’t shift during earthquakes when I was admiring the thick pillar in the kitchen (they had an earth tremor last month). Real treat to stay in one of these houses Ive seen all along the way and a nice reward for such a crappy days ride.




Essential item for every Tibetans dashboard - a mini spinning prayer wheel




Yaks graze the pleasant plains that line the dusty road 




No pleasure here - Custard powder dust makes this a real arse of a descent



All the village helps out with the solid construction of a home




Colourful prayer room in a wealthy Tibetan  home



Daufu to Ganze   by van

Slept really well, probably cos quiet in this solid house. Washed in a bowl using hot flask. Old woman owner of house in prayer room, chanting and laying out in full across floor facing Buddha images and pics of Dalai Llama. Rained a little bit as I went round corner for dumplings and rice soup.

Set off, quite warm although a strong wind. The promise of a good road ended at edge of town where it was more of same from yesterday except today there was a constant head wind with strong gusts that blew blinding clouds of dust straight at me. Worse when a car /truck went past. Did about 6kms then decided to go back, no way I want to do this all day. Went back to gh and left bike and a bag there, then up to van stop as no buses from here. Waited about an hour for passengers to turn up. Off we went. Road completely destroyed up till 1^st town of Luhuo and then about 20% tarmac all way to Ganze. Scenery a bit like driving through Peak District. 2 pilgrim blokes walking along and lying prostrate in road in prayer and one in front pulling a cart with flags on it and solar panel, another group doing same further up road.

Scenery became impressive after the pass, grey rock mtns with jagged snowy peaks on top of round green hills. Came down onto a plain and the road became a runway wide wacky races dust fest, bit like a scene from Paris Dakar rally, as vehicles zoomed along all over place with huge trails of dust behind them. Took a while to find a hotel and not easy lugging bags about. Really disinterested rude in 1^st place hotels, 2^nd one a dump and 3^rd one ok but took a fair bit of haggling to get room for 75Y.

Now 6:45 so decided to go and eat in case everything shut. Loads inquisitive red robed monks wandering about and strange looking Tibetens who stare at you. One bloke actually came into small resto to see what I was eating and just stood next to me staring, (probably what I look like when checking out people’s dishes when trying to decide what to eat at night). Some look like something out of a spaghetti western, all wrapped in shawl type clothing with dark weathered faces. Nice long hot shower to take away the pain of today’s journey. Glad I left the bike behind.

Ganze 

Had a wander round the town. Lots of religious supply shops selling prayer flags, insense, prayer beads, and other essential associated paraphernalia. Monks outfitters with all different types of monk clothing, undergarment vest things, robes, jackets, hats, and so on. General shops with thick smock type jackets with extra long sleeves, other fur lined jackets, brass pots and all shapes and sizes. Other more general stores with sleeping bags, thermals, waterproofs and other field items. Lots of colourful fruit and veg in mkt although pinapples looked a sorry state all shriveled up and bananas looked really out of place all the way up here. Went to inquire about a bus to Dege and got chatting with a bloke with fluent English. He said only one bus from Kanding gets here at 9am and is usually full so either take a van (groan) or can pay a bit extra and get in a big 4X4 as long as it’s full. Double checked bus info with woman at bus station and she said same thing.

Wandered up to a temple in the town. Very atmospheric inside with a dark covered outer corridor one wall lined with prayer wheels and pilgrims walking along spinning them as they past, some people chanting or singing, others just mumbling as they went along. Some spinning all wheels, others in a hurry just doing one or two, and some just walking with prayer beads in hand. At front of temple 2 large wheels either side of entrance which also got turned on the rounds, the wood squeaking as they turned and on top of one a small metal rod that makes a bell go ‘ching’ as it passes each time.  As people passed the doorway to temple they would raise up their hands, then back onto the wheels again. Interesting to see some of the older pilgrims had a professional glove on their right hand.

Up the steps to the temple and either side are people praying and then stretching out body length wooden boards polished smooth by disciples efforts, and a small piece of cloth to rest the forehead on as they repeated the action again and again.

Into the temple main hall, very dark, a few more boards at the back in use by people at prayer. Walls adorned with colourful murals, rows of Buddha images behind glass at one end of hall. Up small steps and more prayer wheels around an inner sanctum. Then into inner sanctum, lit with yak butter candles in large golden dishes, very colourful inside with photos of Dalai Llama, and deities in glass cabinets. 1 red robed monk sat on floor and another behind a small desk thing. Both monks had handlebar moustaches. I gave some money and he held up a fancy silver teapot to pour scented yellow water into my hands, signaling for me to drink a bit and put some on my forehead too. There was another small corridor around this inner sanctum which was covered in fading murals, dimly lit by bulbs.

Interesting to see monks working in shops, begging in the streets (several sat near mkt ringing bells and chanting or spinning a metal thing round a drum on the end of a stick) and some actively walking around asking for money. I tried to use an ATM in the town and there were several monks there withdrawing massive amounts of cash so a bit hard to figure out really. Also seen monks working on roads, driving tractors and working in fields too, selling beads and eating in the afternoon. Mahayana Buddhism seems a lot less restrictive than the Theravada variety practiced in Thailand and elsewhere.

One street corner was the bead selling area with a gaggle of blokes gathered around men selling various necklaces adorned with coloured polished stones. Interesting to see them haggle and it appears that when you are negotiating here you hold tightly onto the others clothes or some other item. One bloke had a monks sleeve in a tight grip while they negotiated a price, and this explains the death grip a hotel woman had on my book that she wouldn’t let go of while I haggled for the price of a room a few days ago.

Further up the road a bloke selling yak skins from the back of his motorbike.

Really interesting town to wander about. Later on went to a view point overlooking river giving good views up and down valley, then clambered up the hill behind to where a may pole thing was with hundreds of prayer flags fluttering in wind and a small shrine with an old dog asleep on steps.



Fell off the back of bike - locals haggle for the fresh Yak pelts for sale 




Colourful strong boxes for sale




Local medallion man and amulet trader



A solar heating device, possibly picks up satellite transmission too

Spin that wheel - prayer wheels surround Tibetan temples (note pro wheel spinning glove on right hand)



Mahayana Buddhist monk at his stall



Snowy peaks surround Ganze



Prayer flags on a  hill nearby the town



Ganze  to Dege 

Dumplings for bf. Was just leaving hotel compound to go to van stop when a bloke came out and got in a 4x4. Turns out he was going in my direction so hopped in and picked up 3 lads further down road. One spoke a little English and they were off to build a house at Serxu. Driver was a pot bellied bloke and seemed a bit all over the place to start, music cranked up full and chugging on cigarettes. He stopped off for a pot noodle in a small village and then just as we set off outside there we had mechanical problems – handbrake cable had jammed pads on. Got it fixed after about 25mins and away we went, bouncing along the ruffled tarmac. Scenery Brecon Beacons/moors. Some interesting looking small towns, one with a main temple on top of hill surrounded by uneven rows of adobe walled, colourfully painted wooden fronted houses and the whole town surrounded by 5m defensive outer wall with large wooden gates in it.

Arrived in Maniganga at 10:30, gave bloke some money and had a look around for transport. Nothing as yet so went to eat food. Can feel altitude here. Had curry flour chipping things with odd tasting meat and matured ‘off’ tasting lumps of gristle in it. Bloke in resto said no more transport to Dege, but woman said some at 2pm. Decided to be proactive and went up road. All around the Y shaped junction lots of men sat or stood around tables rubbing dirt off the small fingers of caterpillar fungus with plastic brushes. Once cleaned up, revealing a yellow caterpillar with a thin hard 4cm spike of fungus coming from its bum, they would be laid out of a table for display. Was beckoned into one tent where a bloke had a huge carrier bag full. Several people who’d come down from the hills were approaching the vendors, unrolling small wraps of plastic, or opening dirty plastic bags to see if they could sell what they’d gathered in the hills. Some really weathered black faces around, wrapped in thick blankets/coats.

Stood in road and flagged down a passing black car. Turned out to be a police car so I asked if they were going to Dege and they said get in. They weren’t but there boss was, so we waited at their roasdside checkpoint where all trucks had to stop and present a carnet. All young in their 20’s, some spoke a little English, but we got by using my phrasebook. Had a laff.

The boss eventually arrived at 1:30 and off we went in a brand new 4x4, Michael Jackson’s greatest hits on the stereo. Soon out of the 2 street town and heading up valley at speed. Stopped off for photos at a beautiful turquoise white lake, then zoomed up valley, frozen patches of snow and ice in valley bottom, road turning to gravel and start of switchbacks up to Chola Pass. Bloke stopping to chat with municipal workers all way up mtn and really nice guy.  Narrow mud and rock roadway, snow all up hills, thick in parts, trucks winding their way up and us going pretty quick, although his driving good. I feel bit sick, probably due to hungry and thirsty plus altitude and driving fast.  Old wreck of a destroyed truck down below, logs scattered down hillside above it. Passed through goal post prayer flags at top of 4800m pass and then down other side, the way narrower here with steeper drops, but great views of surrounding snow covered peaks.

Once off the dangerous switchbacks, bloke really got going and we zoomed along past small homes amongst the pine trees. Group of villagers loading fresh cut pine trees onto a truck which they would sell. Valley narrowed into a tight rock walled gorge, river running in bottom, prayer flags scattered all over the place especially across bridges. Arrived Dege 5ish, then the hunt for accommodation. Looked at some crappy places wanting 80/100Y room. Luckily a small town so kept looking. Bumped into a monk who suggested I try just up road where Id not been yet. Beds there were only 20Y so got my own room for 40Y (2 beds). Share bathrooms a bit grim but room fine and owners really friendly so the price is right!

Started chucking it down so waited for it to ease off before having a wander round the town, took about 10 mins as tiny place. I imagined Dege to be a larger more traditional looking place, but its actually a bunch of high rise buildings packed into a gorge/narrow valley, with some traditional housing up the hillsides of the old part.

Met same monk again in resto later on. Chatted with him (his English really good) and his mentor kindly bought me dinner. (beef here is actually Yak meat which is dark brown and rich in flavor, very tasty). There’s been lots of Yaks grazing along the way today. Yaks are basically cows with fur coats on, but they are slender, nimble, intelligent beasts with sharp horns, and they know how to cross the road!



Beautiful turquoise lake along the way



Dege 

Woken by blaring of horns at 5am?, and then a bloke banging on my door at 6:30, wondering if I wanted to go to Ganzi. So much for a lie in. Went for dumplings at 9ish. In a foul mood as really tired. Wandered about the shops – prayer paraphernalia, outfitters, cornershops etc. Decided to have a nap after lunch and felt human again.

Went to have a look in the Tibeten printing house, the reason Id come to Dege. 50Y entry and ticket bloke gestured there were 3 levels and I should just wander about. Bloke in courtyard scrubbing wooden printing paddles clean in a large trough, water thick red/brown colour from the ink, his hands red too. Colourful prayer hall downstairs, walls surrounded with Buddhist statues, including a female one, and a monk chanting in the middle of room. 1^st floor was a huge dimly lit by natural light library/storage area, all the paddles stacked in rows of shelves. More on next floor up and then a trap door leading up to printing floor. 3 pairs of blokes working at a speed that looked like a dvd on fast forward. Paddle placed between the two, one would dip a sponge into a tray full of ink and rub it down the paddle, long thin paper then placed on paddle and a roller run over top to make the print, paper then put on a pile and process repeated. All this done at a ridiculous speed, the men actually looked like mechanized machine parts with their stiff jerky repetitive movements. Paddles changed every so often, but process the same. Must be piece work to be going at such a pace. Why don’t they just get a printing machine?

Had a wander up onto roof adorned with golden turret things, birds and a wheel of life. Small shrine on the roof with a monk in it. Nearby a large pole adorned with 4m long braids of Yak hair, quite strange looking.

Sky darkening as a storm blew in, the pilgrims circling the building outside now huddled in the doorway out of the driving rain. I went and sat back in library area then had a second round, till it stopped 30mins later.

Wandered up road to a 1000yr old temple, huge walls all way around it and big wooden door to get in. Lots of red coloured dogs wandering about and stone courtyard full of red puddles as rain had leached the colour from the temples walls. Went up steps and inside prayer hall. Sat inconspicuously at back while monks, being led by chief monks seated high up at front chanted, bells being tinkled every so often after each verse. Other monks sat on rows of low benches, reading from scriptures on tables in front. Two monks behind a pillar, away from gaze of senior monks, chatting like naughty school boys.

Some young novices sweeping or mopping the floor, others serving drinks from a flask, coming and going through the curtained doorway where I was. Common to many young kids the world over the cheeky little buggers said ‘fak yu fak yu’ as they passed jostling each other excitiedly, but I didn’t react (some English they’d picked up from a film no doubt).

Chatted with same monk again in resto at night, then arranged the front seat in a van tomorrow back to Ganzi. Checked out tread on tyres and reakoned a smaller vehicle is better than a big bus over the pass, no 4x4’s available.



Roof of Dege printing house and some of the remaining traditional homes that cling to the hillside



Pilgrims walk around the printing house




One of many thousand wooden printing blocks



No mucking about, faster then xerox here at the printing house



Local outfitters - pots, pans, fabrics and quality tents for every occasion



What do you get if you cross Burger King with Nike?



Dege  to Ganzi

Up at 5:45 and went up road to claim the front seat in the van as arranged last night. Hung around munching on the mooncakes Id bought while the van filled, heading off at 6:45. Overcast sky, light rain on way up valley, turning to light snowfall as we got higher up. Track going up the pass had a few cms of snow and thick churned over mud in a few sections from yesterday’s rain and trucks. Driver taking it nice and steady thankfully and 3 monks in van so feeling quite safe. Arrived at top of pass, where all the blokes got out to throw playing card sized coloured paper with prayer prints on each one, a monk handed me a wad and we all threw them up into air to be carried on the wind through the goal posts at top of pass, the Tibetens chanting as they did so. Driver was lobbing his so they blew across and over the stupa.

Then down other side and onto Madeganga for a rest stop. Got ‘chatting’ with a really exotic looking woman and a bloke. She was tall and slender, with gold teeth and dressed in a long black robe-like dress and fancy small purse hung at the waist. She had long braided strands of hair interwoven with blue or yellow coloured stones and with several kind of mini bowler hat things made from metal and coloured fabric as a hair pin. One of blokes in van had bought a bottle of ‘wine’ and was grinning as he swigged away on it.

Driver seemed to have relaxed now and we ambled along back to Ganza, being passed by the other vans from Dege. Crossed over a suspension bridge and carried on down old road for last section of trip cos there had been a mud slide on a section of the new road. Had a look in a new place in Ganzi and checked in there as 80Y, newer than other hotel and had a water heater in bathroom so hot water when I want it! Also well insulated from noise and no potentially barking dogs to be seen. Some monks wandered the corridor shouting into their mobile phones and had tv blaring later on but it was quiet at night thankfully.

Had a wander around town, loads of beggars after cash, had 2 helpings of fried potatoes from mkt, big chunks dusted with chilli powder at 1Y a bag. Bought some of that ‘wine’ the bloke from van had this morning, 3Y for a 600ml bottle, tasted of weak grape juice combined with redbull.





Slippery slushy road on the way up



4800m and a tad nippy. Driver poses by the van at the top of the pass




Locals ponder a purchase at the haberdashery




Tibetan man ourside his home



Ganzi to Dawu (or Daufu as locals call it)

Didn’t fancy getting up at crack of dawn for the bus so didn’t set alarm. Overcast sky and raining in morning. Had dumplings then headed up to van stop at 10:30. Big bloke wrapped in a blue silken fur lined robe ushered me to his van and explained wouldn’t be going till Dege vans arrived (which would be at one). Sat in cold van and waited, played on ipod and listened to music, had more dumplings.  Eventually filled up and left at 1:30, my front seat position being relegated onto other seats by a man who was ill. Bounced along road, stinking bloke next to me needed to brush his teeth. Bloke in back smoking in van too just to add to ambience. Arrived Louho 4:30, driver reakoned I was gonna pay 50Y but he got the regular fare of 40Y. Had to wait an hour for van heading back to Dawu, same driver as Id come with a few days ago. Chatted with a passenger while we ate boiled eggs up the road, then time to go at 5:30. Not pleasant being bounced around in the back over the bad road, but journey made better by fellow passengers, one woman spoke good English so we all had a good natter along the way with her translating.

Van needed radiator filling twice and driver had bad stomach so we stopped several times and progress slowed somewhat. Arrived Dawu 8:30. Girls invited me for noodles so checked into family house first then we got a cab up road to noodle shop. Chatted with family of house till 11, they were using a google speech translater which was pretty good and the woman was asking me all sorts of questions about UK – funniest one was about wife swapping.